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A Good Appetite

Allowing Cocktails to Stir the Meal

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Ready for a cocktail? Jim Meehan, owner of Please Don’t Tell, shows Melissa Clark a few tips and tricks of making cocktails.

DRINKING seasonal cocktails used to mean manhattans in the winter and gin and tonics in the summer.

Then a decade ago, mixologists started infusing the likes of lemon verbena and butternut squash into spirits, taking the notion of seasonal cocktails to a more literal level. Now, you’re just as likely to encounter an heirloom tomato in the glass as on the plate.

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An Emperor's Garden cocktail.Credit...Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

And some restaurants have been creating tasting menus with cocktail pairings that highlight the season’s best, from the aperitif through dessert, seasonal dining from coupe to nuts.

This gave me the idea to try it at home, too. I spent the past weeks letting seasonal cocktails inspire the snacks that I served with them.

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An Emperor's Garden cocktail can be paired with poached shrimp.Credit...Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

I found that the rules for matching cocktails with food are a lot more lax than with wine. Really, anything goes, though the more complicated and layered the ingredients are in the glass, the more involved your accompanying hors d’oeuvres can be, and vice versa. For simpler cocktails, simple foods work best.

To greet our first warm night, my husband and I sipped Emperor’s Gardens, rhubarb and gin cocktails spiked with Thai basil and seasoned rice vinegar (a condiment used to make sushi rice, flavored with sugar and salt).

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Golden Bowl cocktail.Credit...Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

Alongside, I echoed the vinegar and basil in a quick shrimp salad garnished with roasted peanuts for crunch. We ate the shrimp on cucumber rounds, but mounding them on crisp lettuce leaves would have been a slightly fancier presentation.

A few nights later, to accompany a rye- and fennel-flavored cocktail called the Golden Bowl, I whipped toasted fennel seeds and fragrant dark green fennel fronds into a velvety smooth white bean dip, which we scooped up with slivers of the bulb. One large, feathery fennel sufficed for both cocktails and dip.

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El Presidente cocktail.Credit...Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

An icy sherry cobbler traditionally takes advantage of whatever fruit is in season or on hand; oranges, pineapple, raspberries, what have you. One night my husband made us cobblers with amontillado sherry and ripe cherries while I sautéed the cherries in butter, then plopped them on goat-cheese-smeared crostini. I can see this becoming a year-round staple, substituting whatever juicy fruit I can get.

And finally, we made El Presidente cocktails with white rum, a spirit we rarely reach for when a cocktail craving hits. But sweetened and shaded with a few drops of homemade grenadine, this sophisticated, pale pink drink is about as summery as they come. I served them with tiny lamb meatballs brushed with pomegranate molasses to highlight the grenadine.

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An El Presidente cocktail can be paired with lamb meatballs.Credit...Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

To keep things manageable during my cocktail experiments, I opted for individual pairings, whipping up, on a given night, one cocktail and one hors d’oeuvre. It expanded my cocktail-hour repertory, a snazzy prelude to any meal.

Had I been more ambitious, or had I needed a menu for a cocktail party, all of these cocktails and snacks would have worked marvelously served together as well.

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Ready for a cocktail? Jim Meehan, owner of Please Don't Tell, shows Melissa Clark a few tips and tricks of making cocktails.

And in one instance, that night of the Emperor’s Garden, our cocktail hour slid down the slippery slope straight into dinner. We found that after gorging on the tasty little shrimp, all we needed was an arugula salad and a little crusty bread and salty butter to make a meal, allowing me to shelve the pasta dish I had originally planned.

It was light, cooling and, for us, off the well-trod path of gin and tonics, which in itself is worth toasting with a nice seasonal cocktail.

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section D, Page 1 of the New York edition with the headline: Allowing Cocktails to Stir the Meal. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

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